Golf can be a daunting sport to enter. It is often said to have one of the highest barriers to entry of any sport. After equipment, lessons, and green fee costs, it can be an expensive sport to enter. Likewise, starting golf can require an immense amount of training and practicing time. If you or someone you know is looking to get into the game, then here are some easy ways to get started.
Equipment
Golf equipment can be exceptionally expensive. We recommend beginners who are looking to save money start with a box set of clubs. Morton Golf Sales and the Haggin Oaks Super Shop have complete sets starting at $199.99. These sets come with every club needed to begin. They also include a golf bag for that price. This can be an excellent option for a beginner. Additionally, used equipment can provide a good bargain. At Haggin Oaks there are used club sales periodically throughout the summer. This can be an excellent opportunity for anyone to get some lightly used equipment at great prices.
Lessons
Purchasing your equipment is only part of starting to golf. The hardest part is getting proficient at playing. Luckily, Haggin Oaks offers a wide range of lesson packages. There are solo lessons and group lessons as well. Luckily, there are a ton of varying price ranges for these lessons. There are some truly affordable options that aim to get even the most inexperienced players out on the course.
Green Fees
Green fees scare off a lot of potential golfers. However, there are some strategies to save money when it comes to purchasing a tee time. Make sure to subscribe to email newsletters to get the latest sales and promotions. Also make sure to book your times online. Most places offer cheaper times if you broke online. Lastly, golf at non-peak times. Most courses utilize dynamic pricing. That means peak times are more expensive, but non-peak times are very cheap.
Today we want to talk to you about one of the greatest things that we can do here at Morton Golf Sales, Ping Iron Replacements!
Going back about 30 years PING has a record of all of the golf clubs that they’ve ever sold and have the ability to recreate up to two clubs that have been lost over time. So, if your dad or grandfather has given you an old set of PING irons and you’re missing one or two clubs you can have them replaced very economically and to the original factory settings.
Today we’re gonna tell you how to order these clubs and it’s super easy!
The first step is to go to www.mortongolfsales.com, search “replacement” in the search bar and, BOOM, that will bring up all of the different PING irons that are available for replacement.
The second thing you’ll do is match your club model to that same listing and before you go into any of the listings you have to figure out if you have a steel or a graphite shaft and choose the appropriate listing.
The reason you have to differentiate them is that they’re different prices and we have different listings for the different clubs.
Here are a few tips to be able to tell the difference between graphite and steel shafts:
Steel Shafts
Have a shiny, chrome alloy look.
Have a small, shiny label down by the grip.
Have stepping along the body of the shaft that will be present on all shafts except for a handful of Brunswick shafts that were made over the years that were smooth.
Graphite Shafts
Tend to be more of a dull gray and are actually painted. This is the easiest way to tell.
Are also going to have some unique graphics near the grip that often look painted on the shaft.
The next question that it’s going to ask is if you have a left-handed or right-handed club.
You can determine which one it is by looking at which direction the clubface is pointing. A right-handed club faces left and a left-handed club faces right, a bit counter-intuitive, but this is the best way to tell.
Next, you will need to input what number the club is that you want to have replaced. This is going to be whichever club you do not have and that you are wanting a new one of. You can select up to two club options here.
Now we have the most important step in this whole process, the serial number.
PING places a serial number on all of its clubs so that we can get all of the specifics specs of your clubs and you can get the perfect replacement.
The serial number is placed on the back of the hosel of the club (which is the part right at the base of the shaft before the head.) They are a series of numbers and letters that are the unique identifier for your specific set of clubs. Every club in your set has the same serial number and this is how we are able to make sure that the new clubs you get matched exactly to your other clubs.
Some serial numbers are easier to see than others but if you get enough light on there you can read it. Serial numbers are typically easier to find on lighter finished clubs and depending on when your clubs were made they may also have been etched.
Those are the most important aspects of the process for ordering new replacement clubs. With the serial numbers, we can actually get the flex of the club and any additional custom options, but if you know the flex and want to add it you can put that in the notes section of the order, but you don’t have to.
If you want to find and specify the flex of the club, you can. The way to find out the flex of your club is by looking for a sticker near the grip and finding a letter on there. The letter you find will represent a different flex and they can be understood as follows:
A/SR = Senior
R = Regular
S = Stiff
X = Extra Stiff
However, with the serial number, you don’t need this at all, but if you want to add more information you can add it to the order at this point in time.
All we really need to know though is if it’s graphite or steel, what model it is, if it’s right or left-handed, which number you’re missing and the serial number. The rest of the stuff we’re asking for is just extra.
One additional thing you might want to put in the notes section is the grip. Since most people are changing out their grips at least once a year, after 20 or 30 years you probably don’t have the original grips on the club, so you probably do want to write what grip is currently on the clubs up now so we can match that up.
If you have questions, we have lots of customer service agents that can help! Simply give us a call at 888-988-FORE (3673) or you can email us at mail@moretongolfsales.com and we’ll get back to you.
There are not a lot of companies that are offering this, it’s a niche that Morton Golf sales takes great pride in making available for our customers. We know that a lot of people just have a lot of questions on how to place the order so we wanted to put together this quick guide to walk you through the process! I hope it was helpful.
With the release of the new Titleist TS1 and TS4 Drivers we thought it would be helpful to create a blog post that will help you tell the difference between these new clubs and the already released TS3 and TS4 drivers, as well as how to decide which would be best for you.
Titleist has always been known as the avid golfers go-to brand meaning that if you were playing twenty-five rounds of golf or had a handicap of around 10-15 or below Titleist was a brand you would gravitate towards.
However, the TS1 has blown that all to bits now because it is made for EVERYONE.
For the very first time in Titleists history, they actually have made a golf club that can be played by the more inexperienced golfer with a higher handicap in the 25 to 35 range.
What they have done is they’ve created a little bit of a new shape that has a really high MOI (Moment of Inertia) and that’s a good thing. More MOI means more forgiveness. In the back of this golf club, you’re actually going to see a very large tungsten weight.
There is a little dial where the tungsten weight is held and the further you can move the weight back in a golf club the more moment of inertia it has which means if you hit the ball off the heel or toe the head of the golf club will twist less, keeping your shots straighter.
All of the vendors that are building golf clubs for the medium to high handicap players are all trying to move that center of gravity as far back in the golf club as they can to create a higher trajectory, more forgiveness, and lower spin.
Low spin out on tour is what they’re going for and we’ll get into that with TS4 but for the average golfer, spin can help you get the ball airborne which is good for the medium to high handicap players.
The other big key that they’ve done on this driver is the overall weight of it. If I give you the TS1 versus the TS4, the TS1 is significantly lighter and that is because it has a 45-gram shaft. Now there are seven different stock shafts you can choose, however, despite that the overall club weight of a TS1 is much much lighter which is great for the person with low clubhead speed or that is trying to hit the ball farther.
Additionally, with the TS1 there are three loft choices. They are a 9-5, a 10-5 and a 12-5. Again as we’re talking about golfers who need help a 12-5 loft can get that ball airborne so for seniors, ladies or newer golfers more loft is very helpful.
Then with the adjustable hosel on these clubs, you can actually go up and down in loft just by adjusting the hosel which is a newer feature that we’re seeing in the TS series drivers.
Next we have the TS2 Driver. This is not a new driver but the TS2 is the everyman golf club. It’s a mid-launch Golf Club that is going to be for that mid everyday golfer. These are golfers anywhere from a 10-20 handicap. This driver also has seven different shaft options. They have a wide variety of shafts from 50 to 80 grams available for you to fit to your liking.
From a design standpoint, you’ll see that this driver has a little different tungsten weight in the back but again this club also has a very high center of gravity. It’s going to have a little bit lower spin and a little bit lower launch than the TS1 does and is actually available in a couple more lofts. This driver is available with 8-5, 9-5, 10-5, and 11-5 lofts.
The TS2 also has a fairway wood version which the TS1 does not have, but we expect them to come out with a version of fairway woods for the TS1 and TS4 soon.
The TS3 has also been out for a little while. This club is a bit more pear-shaped it isn’t quite as wide from the face to the back and there is no tungsten weight making the center of gravity more forward in this one than the previous two clubs.
The TS3 is not quite as forgiving but because the weight is forward it’s going to be a little bit lower spinning. The face is a little bit deeper which is going to bring the trajectory down, so that better player who is trying to reduce the spin and hit that ball farther will be able to get that.
This club is really great for the players with clubhead speeds of 110-115 mph off the driver and is more workable. So, if you are a player that wants to hit the ball left to right or right to left based on the hole you’re playing having the weight forward in the driver is going to allow you to do that.
This clubs isn’t for the player that’s just up there praying it’s going to go straight, this is for the player that has an idea of where the ball is going to go and how they want to work that ball and tune it around.
This is for a little bit better player, probably in the 5 to 15 handicap.
Last but not least we have the new TS4 and this one does have a tungsten weight in the bottom, but it is closer to the face of the club. This club is way different than all the other clubs because this is bringing the moment of inertia closer to the face and as the weight goes towards the face the spin and trajectory go down a lot making this the perfect club for the advanced golfer.
This is a great driver for the low handicapper and the tour players who are creating an exceptional amount of spin off their driver with a clubhead speed that’s upwards of 115-120 mph. These players are putting tons of spin on the ball and they need everything they can to reduce the spin to maximize their distance and that’s what the new TS4 is going to do for their really hard swingers.
This golf club is going to be the lowest spinning driver the Titleist has ever made.
However, there are exceptions to all the rules. A golfer who actually has a very choppy swing or as has an arc that is coming right down on the ball and generating an enormous amount of spin off their driver has a tendency to hit the ball super high and this might be a great option for them because it’s going to bring the trajectory down and bring their spin down. There are exceptions to every rule but for the average consumer, this typically won’t be the club for you.
This club in only available with 8-5. 9-5. and 10-5 lofts and still available with any of the stock shafts that can make the club heavier or lighter as well as have an impact on the torque of the clubs. So, aside from picking the right driver, you also need to be aware of which club you choose, as this can have a major impact on performance as well.
Between the different shafts, heads, lofts and more there are literally hundreds of different options for you to choose from when picking out the perfect club for you.
If you aren’t sure which shaft or driver you should get, you can always give us a call to get customized advice from our golf clubs experts at (916) 808-0977.
Overall, those are the pros and cons of the Titleist TS1, TS2, TS3, TS4 drivers, I hope you found this helpful!
If you ave any questions or comments you can leave them below and we will get back to you, we love hearing from you!
When it comes to trying to get out of the bunker, there are a few key points you need to keep in mind.
1.) Your Stance
When you’re in the bunker you want to get your feet nice and wide apart. You want to get into an athletic stance, almost like if you’re playing defense in basketball.
Bend your knees and put your hips back a bit to be able to have a stable foundation for your swing.
2. Put Weight on Your Front Leg
Net, you need to lean your weight on your front leg. This will be your right leg if you’re left-handed and you left leg if you are right-handed.
You do this to get extra leverage on the ball and to change your attack angle so that you can get even more of a nice ark on your shot and really get out of the bunker.
One of the biggest reasons that people don’t get out of the bunker is because they don’t get far enough under the ball and don’t hit it high enough to get over the lip.
Putting your weight forward like this allow you to make sure you get under the ball and pop it out the bunker.
3.) Big Swing
Lastly, you want to take a big swing to make sure that you really get under that ball.
You to focus on a nice high finish and hit that sand right behind the golf ball with a big finish toward our hole.
You want to hit the sand right behind the ball so that you don’t top it and make great contact with it.
Recap
So, in short, the three things you need to keep in mind to get the shots out of the bunker are:
Athletic Stance
Weight on that left side
Big Swing and Hit the Sand Right Behind the Ball
Apply those 3 things and you will definitely see and improvement in your ability to get the ball out of the sand pit next time you hit it in.
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